Sunday, April 30, 2017

August 2016: Island Park--Fifty Miler with the Scouts--Part One

The Team

Last summer, I spent so much time travelling that I couldn't spend any time blogging.  Now I'm playing catch up.  I logged over a hundred miles of human powered travel last summer.  About half of it came on a single trip.  For High Adventure, the boy scouts in our church unit decided to get their Fifty Miler patch.  Since two of my boys are in the troop, and I had never gotten a fifty miler patch, I decided to go as a chaperone.  I always like to accompany my sons on their High Adventure adventures and scout camps.  I love the outdoors and I love to see new things.

To receive the Fifty Miler award, a scout must travel fifty continuous miles over no more than five days.  The fifty miles can be obtained by any combination of biking, boat, canoe, or hiking.  In addition, each scout must log at least ten hours of service during the event.  Easy.

Our plan was to canoe for ten miles across the Island Park Reservoir on the first day and camp on it's eastern shore.  Day two we were going to hike ten miles or so from that camp to the Island Park Boy Scout Camp where we would camp the second night.  By this time in August, Scout Camp was finished and we would have the camp to ourselves.  The third day we were going to hike another ten miles Warm River Springs.  The Fourth day to Bear Gulch and then bike for another mile to the Warm River Campground.  Day five we planned to bike thirty miles to Tetonia.  Most of the hiking and biking was going to be done on the old Union Pacific right of way.  Union Pacific pulled it's tracks in the seventies or eighties without consulting anyone in the towns along the way.  West Yellowstone felt especially betrayed because people there wanted to install a steam locomotive from Ashton to West Yellowstone to bring tourists up to the park.  Now the railbed has been converted to a hiking and biking trail.

If you were keeping up on the math, you'd see that our fifty miler was really going to be more like a seventy miler.

Day One

The one thing we didn't count on was the water level in the reservoir.  It was quite low.  The guy I was canoeing with grew up with a summer home on the reservoir and he was shocked at how low the water was.  Our ten miles on the water would end up being more like seven.

When we got to the put in place, it was covered with grass and wildflowers, not water.  We had to drive along the lakeshore for awhile until we could find an appropriate put in.  When we got there, we had to walk along a dry, mud cracked plain.  The dry plain turned into a wet mud cracked plain.  The mud had some of the attributes of quicksand, but quite a bit slower.  More than one boy had to retrieve a shoe from deep in the mud.

When we finally put in, we paddled for over a mile still able to touch the lake bottom with our paddles.  After that, we finally found deep water.  It's a good thing that canoes have flat bottoms and shallow drafts though.  We ate our lunch on the water and we told the boys to sunscreen up.  Water has a tendency to magnify the UV light from the sun.  Some of the boys listened.  My two sons did not.

After we had paddled about four miles, some of the boys began asking how much further we had to go.  I started saying, "Nine miles."  We'd paddle for a mile or two and they'd ask again.  I'd repeat, "nine miles."  That demoralized them.  (heh heh heh).  We were within two miles of our destination and one of the boys asked how much further.  I told him, "Nine miles."

When we got to camp, we beached the canoes, dried them out and loaded them onto the truck that would haul them home.

Bear tracks in the dried mud plain

Wolf tracks in the dried mud

Boys hiking across the quickmud

We had to hike quite a long way to get to the put in point

As you can see

Imagine putting in right there.  The dots in the middle of the picture are ibis.  They are standing on the lake bottom

My youngest son standing in the front of the canoe

My other son eating lunch in the front of the canoe

Boys and men paddling

Some of the boys couldn't figure out how to paddle straight, so they zig-zagged.  We estimated that those boys actually paddled about three miles more than the rest of us.

We got to the campsite and the trailer with the tents hadn't arrived yet, so everybody kind of did their own thing.  Some of the boys built an elaborate dam with a spillway, some of them played in the mud, and I found a long stick and began carving it.  Some of the boys got interested in what I was doing, but they said, "I could never do what you're doing."  To which I replied that I was once their age and I had to start somewhere and so did they.  One by one, over the next few days almost all of the boys found walking sticks and began to carve them.  It was relaxing and a lot of fun.

One of the leaders made dinner in an old milk can.  He put oil in the can, then put it on the grill.  He added layers of meat and vegetables.  It turned out to be very tasty.  Camp food doesn't have to taste like camp food.  After dinner, we cleaned up and set up camp.  When we unloaded the tents, we discovered that the people who had used it previously had broken a tent pole and had neglected to tell us.  I crafted a new section of pole out of a tree branch and some pink duct tape.  The scouts called it the "Frankentent" from that moment on.

When dinner was done and camp was set up, the Bishop (our ecclesiastical leader) brought out a really cool potato gun and we had a good time shooting it.  I hadn't shot a potato cannon since I was about fourteen.  I guess that was forty years.  While we weren't aiming at the trumpeter swan, it was none too happy that a bunch of boys and men invaded it's territory and started shooting potatoes everywhere.

My son, playing in the mud.  He said it helped with the sunburn.  More of that later

Oh dam

My other son sitting in the reservoir

The annoyed swan

The spillway

Frankentent

Milk can dinner

Sun getting low in the sky

The bishop loading the epic potato gun

My son shooting

The old man shooting.

Day Two

After breakfast, we broke camp and headed out on the road.  We hiked a mile or two, crossed the main highway and made our way to the old Union Pacific Right of Way.  The right of way has become a popular trail for horseback riding, four wheeler riding, snow machining, cycling, motorcycling, and hiking and not necessarily in that order.  The railbed is hard packed in some places and inches thick in dust in others.  It vacillates between easy walking and kind of tough walking.  Unlike other trails that bend and curve, this trail is a straight shot for long stretches with gentle curves.  It also has long stretches of all the same scenery punctuated with short bursts of really scenic views.

Along the way, each boy was issued a pair of loppers and we groomed the trail as we hiked it.  From time to time, the Right of Way would cross rivers and streams and we'd stop at them and take a dip.  Being August, it was pretty hot, so cool water was welcome.  The problem was that the water wasn't cool, it was downright cold and kind of shocking to the system.  One of the leaders is a policeman for his day job and may have had some military training.  He convinced some of the boys to do twenty burpees in the cold water.  My youngest son and one of the others did a bunch.  Only one boy got to twenty.  The prize for twenty was a pizza when we returned to civilization.  A burpee is what we used to call a squat thrust in gym class.  Starting from a standing position, you squat down to a crouch, with your hands on the ground you shoot your legs out straight, do a push-up, return to the crouch and then jump up as high as you can.  Repeat.

The coolest thing about the river crossings, though were the old railroad trestle bridges that we crossed.  There was evidence that they had been built and rebuilt over the years, and every now and then we'd find a Geo-cache.  That was kind of fun.  We added our expedition to the log and returned them to their rightful location.

Island Park Reservoir inlet or outlet, not sure which

This was a potty stop, one of the boys went off in the trees on the left side of the road, and when he came back I told him that was the girls bathroom!  That became a standing joke the rest of the week.  He was a good sport so no teenagers were harmed.

Uber cold water right there.

Cooling down

Burpee time

pain

There was a primal scream here

Shock to the system

Agony

Triumph

My youngest son facing the burpee challenge

Aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!

Trestle bridge

Geo-Cache

This is where the Geo-Cache was

Groomen das trailen, unt yah (didn't know I spoke German did you?)

Minnows

Signing in on the second Geo-Cache

Remnants of old pilings from the original trestle bridge

On the bridge above the old pilings

More trail grooming

The last several miles of the trail on this day were kind of brutal.  We had moved from the railbed onto the frontage road on our way to Island Park Boy Scout Camp.  It was hot, it was dusty, everybody was about out of water and there was almost no shade.  From time to time we'd pass a telephone pole and ten boys and leaders would line up in the shade for a few minutes just to cool off.  We finally arrived and set up camp.  After that it was time to play in the lake.  As I said before, camp season was over and we had the place all to ourselves.  We were good stewards though.  Didn't cause a lot of mischief.  Probably because we were too tired to get into much trouble.

The brutal slog on the frontage road

At last

On the lake at night

In the lake at night

The whistlin' and whittlin' brigade

It has become obvious to me at this point of the blogging that this is really a two part blog post.  I will return and blog about the final two days of this adventure.  Sunburns awaiting.


Thursday, April 27, 2017

April 2016: Yellowstone and Stupid People

Bob

I didn't blog at all in 2016.  This trip to Yellowstone may be the reason.  We headed up at the end of April, which is one of our favorite times to go.  Typically during this time of year the majority of the license plates you see on cars come from Idaho, Montana, Utah and Wyoming.  All people who should know better.  These people don't usually stop for elk or bison unless there are babies or a couple of bulls that want to beat each other up.  These are the people who come to Yellowstone to see bears, wolves and bears.

This is also the time of year when you see people with expensive cameras and two foot long lenses that cost as much as a car.  Anytime in April or May, when you see one of those lenses on a tripod, you know you should stop to see what they are seeing.  Typically it ain't a Canada Goose.

We normally hit the hot water events early in April because the crowds are small and the geysers and mudpots all seem more liquid and active.  But by the end of April and to the end of May, we're hunting bears.  We decided to head to the Lamar Valley in hopes of seeing a few Ursa Majors.  We headed north from Madison Junction and within a few miles we saw a line of cars along both sides of the road and a lot of really long lenses on cameras.  This was along the Gibbon River near Gibbon Falls.

These are the people who should have known better.

There was a sow grizzly with three very young cubs on the hillside.  The professional photographers were having a heyday with these bears.  The problem was that the sow was trying to take her cubs to the river and the photographers had created an impenetrable wall of humanity that wouldn't allow her to pass.  I think she wanted to take her cubs for a drink and teach them things, but I don't speak bear very well.  What I do know is that she was very agitated.  She would approach the people with her cubs and when they didn't move, she turned and walked back up the hill.  The cubs followed very closely.  If the cubs were any older, they'd have been off playing and climbing trees.  These cubs were so young they stayed with the mama the whole time.

She'd get a safe distance up the hill and then head south ten or so yards then head back down the hill, hoping to cross the road.  The photographers refused to part and she'd get agitated again.  My thought is that if the cubs had been any older and she hadn't felt the need to be so protective that there would have been a few dead photographers.  We watched this for awhile and when she got to where we were, we left, hoping to give her a spot to cross.  Pretty sure the people behind us filled in as soon as we left though.  For the next hour we looked for a ranger to try to let him or her know what was going on to help the sow get her young to water.  We never found one.
Bears approaching the wall of humanity

Frustrated, moving south

Another attempt

Heading to water

Why won't these people move?

Heading south again

Looking for an opening, see the car in the foreground

This sow was getting agitated

Heading south again

Looking for an opening, not finding it

Heading south yet agan

This went on and on

Trying again

Bringing her cubs with her

Heading up the mountain

Looking for an opening

Heading south again

This is about the time we left
We continued on our way and headed toward the Lamar Valley.  On the way, we saw an osprey, stopped for the annual, obligatory climb up Sheepeater Cliff, saw a few waterfalls and visited with a black bear.
Osprey

Bison, think they own the place

Annual climb up Sheepeater Cliff

My brother the raven

Rustic Falls, full of spring runoff

Undine Falls, the same

The black bear

We just hung out for awhile

rested

had a good time

Blacktail deer
The title of this blog post is "Yellowstone and Stupid People."  We saw the stupid people with the grizzly bear at the beginning of our journey, then we headed into the Lamar Valley and saw some more.

There is a bridge over the river just as you enter the Lamar Valley, and when we crossed, we saw a magnificent bighorn ram with a full curl reposing on the hillside, surveying his domain.  He was awesome.  I pulled over and took a bunch of photos of him.  He was unconcerned by me.  I had my 250mm lens on my camera and the photos I'm going to show are not cropped.

Here's why I said there were stupid people in Yellowstone that day.  We were the only car that stopped to take photos of this incredible ram.  I guess it's because he wasn't a bear or a wolf.  Sometimes people irritate me.

The most magnificent animal in the park that no one saw 

There were migrating bison on the hillside

The ram was checking them out

We were just hanging out

Bison and pronghorns living in harmony, mass hysteria.

We headed home and wouldn't you know it, the sow and her cubs were still trying to get across the river.  Hours later.  It was ridiculous.

Still trying to get across the road

Those cubs look thirsty

Straggler

What the heck?

Giving up

Sometimes people are stupid.