Showing posts with label Grand Teton National Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grand Teton National Park. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 19, 2020

August 2017: Epic "Roadtrip" Part I: Yellowstone/Grand Teton

Rainbow over Upper Mesa Falls

So here's the thing.  When you marry someone, you don't just marry them, you marry their family.  When I married The Hot Chick, I acquired a few more siblings.  I gained some extra brothers and a sister.  For me, I don't really see 'brother-in-law' or 'sister-in-law', I just see brothers and sisters.  We are all part of the family.

In August of 2017 we had a total eclipse of the sun.  My house was right in the path of totality.  Ground zero for eclipse folk.  There are people who spend thousands of dollars and lots of their free time chasing eclipses.  Who knew?  It seemed a bit weird to me, but it seemed like a once in a lifetime deal, so we got excited for it.  We convinced The Hot Chick's sister and her family to come to our house to witness it, then we shamed The Hot Chick's brother into coming here with his family.  He works really hard and is a business owner.  When you are a small business owner, you are never really sure if you own the business or if it owns you.  We convinced him that his children needed to have that experience and that it was a once in a lifetime deal.  So he came and brought his family.  We were glad he did.

Remember what I said about family.  I was only trying to establish the familial relationship.  I have been a member of The Hot Chick's family for a long time, and several of her siblings were young when I joined the family, one of her siblings has almost no memories of life before I was a member of the family.  So her siblings are my siblings.  My siblings are now her siblings.  It's a package deal.

All the news stations were predicting huge crowds of people in our town, at least three times the population coming for the eclipse.  Stores were selling out of lots of goods and there wasn't a hotel room to be had.  People were renting square footage in potato fields for people to tent camp.  It was crazy.

We convinced our family members who were travelling to come a few days early to beat the rush, and in return we'd go see some of the sights around and about.  Our brother hadn't been to Yellowstone since he had been a teenager, his kids had never been here.  We wanted to make sure they had a good time.

Mesa Falls Scenic Byway
The quickest route from our home to Yellowstone is along US 20, as I discovered in an earlier blog post is the longest continuous road in America.  You can dip your feet in the Atlantic and drive all the way to the Pacific and never leave US 20.  At the town of Ashton, Idaho a spur road called Highway 47 takes off to the east.  It might be the old highway to Yellowstone or it might be it's own thing.

HWY 47 dips down into Warm River Canyon where a fish preserve is located.  People feed the fish all summer long and some of the trout get up to two feet long, maybe longer.  Then the byway continues up a pass and descends into Bear Gulch.  Then it continues up to Lower Mesa Falls and then Upper Mesa Falls.  There are other things to see on this byway, but for this post, those are the things that matter

When we got to the trout preserve, the trout weren't feeding, but the only entity allowed to fish there was.  The osprey.  We ended up feeding the ducks instead.  Then we headed up to Lower Mesa Falls and Upper Mesa Falls.  I have written about all of this before, but this was the first visit for our brother and his family.  One of the things The Hot Chick and I love more than just about anything is taking first timers to see the sights.

If you get to Upper Mesa Falls at just the right time there is a magnificent rainbow effect that plays there.  We were able to see it on that day and it was magical.

The Fish Hawk in it's natural habitat.  I learned yesterday that an Osprey is a member of the hawk family.  I had thought
they were their own deal.

Fish hawk again

The only fish pic of the day

But the ducks were fed

Feeding the duckfish

Lower Mesa Falls from the overlook

We asked a stranger to take this group shot.  She took the photo and didn't steal my camera

Bears sometimes pose for tourists
(ok, so these aren't live bears, they are dead bears that have been posed to look like live bears)

Brink of the falls

Rainbow at Upper Mesa Falls

The Hot Chick and the nieces

Turkey vulture flying overhead.  Not sure if he was waiting for me or not

More Mesa Falls

Even more

Just before the Idaho/Montana border on US 20 is a pullout called Howard Spring.  My kids say it is the best water they have ever tasted.  Somewhere along the line the natural spring was tapped and they made a fountain for weary travelers.  There is a picnic area as well.  Sometimes we picnic there.

In 1877, just after the Battle of Camas Meadows, General Howard, in pursuit of the Nez Perce tribe stopped at this natural spring.  I don't know if he named it after himself or if someone else named it for him.  There was a pass through a narrow canyon to the Montana side.  Highway 20 follows along the Nez Perce Trail for a short distance here.  A hundred and forty-three years ago, though this canyon was bustling with hundreds of cavalry soldiers and their mounts as they pursued Chief Joseph and his people.

We just stop for the water.

The nephew and the nieces at Howard Spring, the best water on earth

Lewis Monkeyflower.  Merriweather Lewis is the first scientist to describe this flower in scientific literature.  It is named for him as many things are in the Louisiana Purchase and the Oregon Territory.  William Clark got to name a few things after himself too.

Yellow Monkeyflower.  Both the Lewis Monkeyflower and the Yellow Monkeyflower are found at Howard Spring annually.

Yellowstone:  Entrance to Old Faithful
I grew up in West Yellowstone, Montana.  Because my dad owned a theatre there, we worked at night, so having a long trip into Yellowstone didn't happen very often.  We usually had in and out trips.  That meant we went in to see Old Faithful often.  These days, when we visit the park, we spend most of our time on the upper loop.  We go to Mammoth, Norris, Canyon, Tower and The Lamar Valley.  Thing about it is, there is so much to see and so much to do in Yellowstone that you can literally go in after a thousand times and see something different.

That being said, when we bring newbies along, we start with Old Faithful, because you have to.  You have to see it at least once.

Firehole Falls, which I have photographed ten hundred million, billion times and will photograph it at least that many more times before I take the dirt nap

We always pose for a photo here.  Never gets old

Silex Spring on the Fountain Paint Pots Nature Trail.
This is what Morning Glory Pool used to look like before stupid people

I think this is Spasm Geyser on the Fountain Paint Pots Nature Trail

The Old Faithful Inn, the largest log structure in the world.  Take that, Texas and Russia!

Geo-thermal royalty.  The Big Kahuna, La Grande Fromage!
Old Faithful

Yellowstone:  The Million Dollar Room
So I said you could go to Yellowstone a thousand times and see something new every time.  It's true.  After Old Faithful erupted, we went on an obligatory visit to Hamilton Store because ice cream.  When we were hanging around looking at authentic Yellowstone souvenirs made in China, I saw a sign on the wall that talked about the "Million Dollar Room."  I asked an employee at the register what that was and she asked, "Would you like a tour?"

Hmmmm, let me think, "Uh, Yeah.!"  So Charles Hamilton was an early concessionaire in Yellowstone.  He may have had a monopoly at one time.  Jury's out.  His headquarters were in the upper rooms of the Hamilton Store at Old Faithful.  Hamilton saved every cancelled check he ever wrote for supplies and merchandise and when he had enough, he wallpapered his office with them.  Then he called it "The Million Dollar Room."  He had six rooms in the upstairs, but sadly his office is all that remains.  The National Park Service, though brought in a conservator to clean and stabilize the paper of the checks and then covered them with plexi-glass.  Now you may take a tour upon request.  Disclaimer:  The total dollars represented on the cancelled checks don't equal a million, more like 1.9 million.

You can always find something new.  Always

Charles Hamilton's original light

Some of the check wallpaper

The lights were low, so the pics are dark

And people in motion are fuzzy

I finally decided to use a flash

The final tally

Yellowstone to the South Entrance:  Waterfalls
When we planned this trip, we only planned up to Old Faithful.  We didn't have an exit strategy.  I don't know the reason, but we decided if one national park was good, then two would be infinitely better.  I did ask the nieces, "Which of your other uncles have taken you to TWO national parks in one day?"  Of course the answer was, "None."  Favorite uncle, right here.

We really just stopped at waterfalls from Old Faithful to the Southern Entrance.  First we stopped at Kepler Cascades.  Then we stopped at Lewis Falls and finally Moose Falls.  I have blogged about all of these waterfalls before.  Really, this trip was all about showing our family things they had never seen before.

Kepler Cascades

The family at Kepler Cascades

Lewis Falls.  Named for Meriwether Lewis of the famous Lewis & Clark expedition.  Contrary to popular belief, Lewis & Clark (or was it Clark and Lewis?) never explored Yellowstone.  If they had, they would have never left.

Stone bridge near Moose Falls

Moose Falls, one of my favorites

The family at the brink of Moose Falls

Grand Teton National Park
The Teton Range in Wyoming has often been called, America's alps.  There is a whole range of mountains that are over 11,000 feet above sea level.  They aren't the tallest mountains in the United States, but they may be the prettiest.  There is an Idaho side and a Wyoming side to the Tetons.  That doesn't mean the mountains are half in and half out, it means that when you view them from Idaho they are very different than if you view them from Wyoming.  The classical view is from the Idaho side, but most people who really experience them see them from the Wyoming side.  I am pretty sure the lonely Frenchman who named them was looking at them from the Idaho side.  It's the only side that makes sense.

Story goes, a lonely French trapper saw the mountains and proclaimed les trois tétons (which means the three teats).  What can I say, the west has some interesting place names.  There is a town in Idaho named Malad.  Story goes, a French trapper got sick while camping there.  Was it the same French trapper?  I don't know.  Food poisoning, and the whole camp got sick in ways that are unspeakable in polite company.  They complained about their malady at that location and then an English speaker shortened it to Malad.  So the story goes.  In fact, when I lived in Buffalo, New York I was told that a French trapper looked out over the Niagara River and proclaimed "Beau fleuve!"  Which means beautiful river.  Someone passing by thought he said Buffalo, even though there were no buffalo in what would be called Buffalo, New York.

Grand Teton is directly south of Yellowstone National Park and is connected to it via the John D. Rockefeller Memorial Parkway.  The parkway is managed by the National Park Service (NPS).  Really, the whole area is managed by them, but there are divisions of responsibility within the park service so they all do different things.  It doesn't make sense on the one hand, but the two parks are very different so I guess it's okay.  Grand Teton was carved and sculpted by glaciation whereas Yellowstone was born of fire.  Two vastly different landscapes separated by a mere 27 miles.

Grand Teton was established in 1929, the same year the stock market crashed and ushered in The Great Depression.  We still cared about beauty during that period.  From the north, coming from Yellowstone, the first body of water a traveler encounters is Jackson Lake.  It is a natural lake but a dam was built at one end before it became a park which raised the water level by 40 feet.  My understanding is that after the original park was created, lands were added to it when they became available.

For our trip, it was late in the day and we were headed home over Jackson Pass, so we just enjoyed the drive and didn't hike.  We stopped at Jenny Lake for the sunset because there may not be a more picturesque lake anywhere in the world.  There may be lakes that are equal but I've never encountered one that is superior.  At Jenny Lake, we ate a small picnic dinner and headed for home as the sun went down.

Jackson Lake almost at the golden hour

The marshlands

Our family

I've had something to say about place names in the last few blog posts.  This area I live in was discovered by and settled by creative, colorful, maverick people.  There was a trapper in the area named Andrew Henry who named everything he could in this area after himself.  Fort Henry I, II, and III, Henry's Lake, Henry's Fork of the Snake River.  Almost like a retirement plan.  The French guys who named things after body parts and functions.  Lewis & Clark named all kinds of stuff after themselves.  When you drive up to Northern Idaho, through Montana, you will cross over the Clark's Fork of the Yellowstone River at least ten times.

Then there was this other guy.  Richard Leigh.  Richard Leigh was a trapper and a relative latecomer to Idaho toward the end of the fur trade.  Leigh was a colorful character who trapped all over the area that is southeast Idaho and northwest Wyoming.  He especially liked the Tetons.  Leigh was an Englishman who came to the west to seek a fortune.  He was well liked in the trapping community and with the local settlers.  He married a Shoshone woman who had converted to Christianity, and her Christian name was Jenny.  There are two lakes in Grand Teton that are connected by a smaller narrow lake.  The northern lake is Leigh Lake which is connected to the southern lake called Jenny Lake by way of a small body of water called String Lake.  They are joined together for eternity.  All over the Tetons there are features named for Leigh and Jenny.  In southeast Idaho, near where I live there is a park named for Richard Leigh.  For this park, though they did not name it for his Christian name but rather his nickname.  It is called "Beaver Dick Park."

Jenny Lake at dusk.  There are a few days of the year that you can photograph the sun going down between the two
Mountains.  When there is smoke in the air or dust, the sunbeams through the gap are amazing.  Professional photographers
will camp in Grand Teton on those predictable days just to try to get that shot.  I've never taken that photo.  Some day maybe

See what I have to deal with?  I can't handle this much beauty

Mount Teewinot in the golden hour

So, I have titled this Epic "Roadtrip" even though our home was our homebase.  We didn't camp, we didn't stay in hotels, we stayed in our home.  We did set up a tent in the backyard and the kids slept back there.  So why call this a roadtrip?  I think I'm calling it that because of the epic nature of our staycation.  Our family certainly made a roadtrip to see us, but then we basically camped at our house and went all around the area waiting for the eclipse.  Everything about this felt like a roadtrip except the accommodations.  In the end, I guess I'm calling it an Epic "Roadtrip" because it's my blog and I can.


Epic "Roadtrip" Part II:  Lewis & Clark Caverns

Epic "Roadtrip" Part III:  Teton Dam

Epic "Roadtrip" Part IV:  Total Eclipse of the Sun



Wednesday, April 26, 2017

May 2016: Yellowstone/Grand Teton National Parks--Archival Post

Lodgepole Pines with new snow on them in May
I took a year and a half break from blogging.  I don't know why, but I did.  I did not take a year and a half break from Yellowstone or other travelling.  Sometimes a guy just gets busy.  But now I need to play catch-up.

This blog post details a trip up to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks that the Hot Chick and I made near the end of May last year.  We love Yellowstone at any time of year and are always looking for excuses to drive up and see the park.

Last May, toward the end of the month we had a free Saturday and we went up.  We figured, May, should be fine, the weather should be good.  Then when we got to Island Park, the weather started to turn.  The further north we traveled, the worse it got.  We were starting to second guess our decision to go to Yellowstone, but we soldiered on anyway.  By the time we reached Mack's Inn (22 miles away from Yellowstone),  we were engulfed in a blizzard.  We weren't sure if we had packed warm enough jackets for this trip.  But we went on anyway.

Blizzard on the Henry's Fork of the Snake River at Macks Inn

The ducks didn't like it either

After we crossed the Continental Divide and the state line into Montana, the weather cleared up a bit.  It was still cold but at least the blizzard stayed on the Idaho side.

We had gone up to Yellowstone without an agenda.  We wanted to go but didn't know what we wanted to see.  Because of the weather, though, we decided it was going to be more of a 'see what we can from inside the car' day.

One of the first things we saw around Madison Junction was a very cold bald eagle sitting in a tree.  We took the Firehole Loop Road and saw the falls.  The water was quite muddy with the spring runoff.  Apparently we were going to Old Faithful.

Because of the cold and the fact that we were unprepared for it to be cold, we did not stop at any of the geyser basins between Madison Junction and Old Faithful.  I did stop for a trumpeter swan, though.  It was near Nez Perce Creek, and the swan was on an island just preening itself.  I watched for quite a long time and took a lot of pictures.  Suffice it to say, I had no idea a swan's neck was that maneuverable.  I could post a dozen pictures of the swan's neck in different contorted positions, but I won't.

When we got to the Upper Geyser Basin, we pulled in just in time to see Castle Geyser in full eruption.  Castle is one of the great geysers in Yellowstone and it's eruptions can last twenty or thirty minutes.  It's quite the sight.  We had a decision to make at this point.  Do we sit out in the cold and watch Old Faithful?  Do we turn around and go home?  Do we pay twice the regular amount and buy a winter coat inside the park? or do we head south and go home by way of Grand Teton National Park?

We've seen Old Faithful ten hundred million billion times, and while it's really cool and we never get tired of it, we decided not to sit in the cold and wait for it.  We had intended to spend the day in the park, and had already committed the time and the gas money to be there, so it seemed a waste to just turn around and go home.  There is no way I'm going to spend the money to buy my clothes in Yellowstone.  I love the park, but the stuff in the shops is too expensive for my tastes.  So Grand Teton it was.

The Bald Eagle, who seemed as cold as we were

National Park Mountain at Madison Junction.  Below this site, a hundred and fifty years ago or so, the explorers who were investigating the claims of this part of the country, camped and dreamed up the idea of setting Yellowstone apart as a national park so everyone could enjoy it.  This was a revolutionary idea because there had never been a national park before, anywhere on earth.  I'm glad they did.

So I'm packing my bags for the Misty Mountains, where the spirits go now, Over the hills where the spirits fly now, ooh.  I really don't know.

Firehole Falls, the muddy version

One of the tamer poses of this swan

Castle Geyser happening now.

We headed towards Lake and south to Grand Teton National Park.  On our way, we stopped to see Lewis Falls and Moose Falls.  Not surprisingly, the further south we went, the better the weather became.

Yellowstone Lake

Yellow Bells, why is everything yellow in this park?

Snow covered hill 

Lewis Falls

Looking down the canyon

Moose Falls

From further away

This guy considered us to be uninvited guests

I've always loved old bridges

The weather started getting better and there was less snow, so we continued on our journey.  As we drove through the northern part of Grand Teton National Park, we saw a large grizzly bear.  We also saw a pelican swimming in Jackson Lake.  When we got to the Signal Mountain Turnoff, we realized we had never been there, so we headed up.  It was a very spectacular view of the whole valley.  While we were up there, we surprised a dusky grouse and her husband.  I'm not sure they were excited to have us in their living room.

While we were up on Signal Mountain, we saw some strange looking wood piles.  They were underneath the forest canopy and were piled up as if they were going to be made into tepee fires.  Then we saw burnt fire circles.  This was a mystery until we discovered a sign.  These were made of fallen timber and were an attempt to clean out the fuel on the forest floor to mitigate the damage in case of a forest fire.  In other words they were doing controlled burns to try to avoid the big one like they had in Yellowstone in 1988.  I'm not sure how I feel about that.  We thought the fires of 1988 were devastating for Yellowstone.  We left in 1988 and went to the east for six or seven years, then we ended up in the Seattle area for another six years.  When we came back, we were amazed at how healthy Yellowstone had become as a result of the fires.  Forest fires are an integral part of the life cycle of a healthy forest.

The Teton Range with cloud cover on Jackson Lake

More cloud cover

Da Bear

Da Bear again

Pelican

View from Signal Mountain

USGS Survey marker on Signal Mountain

Incredible view

Another incredible view

The dusky grouse 

And her husband

More view

Strange tepee fire thingys

The rest of the trip was punctuated by glorious views of the cloud shrouded Teton range.  It was really pretty.  The west is a land of superlatives.  I don't have words to do the scenery justice here.  That is the domain for the great poets I think.  So as a lesser poet, I think I'll finish by showing pictures.

Lily-pads on a small lake or pond

Clouds shrouding the majestic American Alps

More clouds, more alps

It was difficult to have to be exposed to such beautiful scenery all day, but we managed to survive

We had to drive on this road

Who said clouds could be so low?

It was really quite amazing

Can't get enough of this

As you can tell

It was really pretty

Last shot of the day

We drove home through Jackson Hole after a really beautiful day in two national parks.  We love living here.